Bad Behavior and the Veterinary Practice

As a dog trainer I often work closely with veterinary practices. If I have a house-training case or a problem presented to me that is newly developed I will first ask the client to rule out a medical condition. When a dog has a lapse in house-training and begins having accidents throughout the house I will often ask what is different? If the answer is nothing, I encourage the client to take a urine specimen to their veterinarian to rule out the possible urinary tract infection. If a dog is presented with snapping at children, other dogs, or when you handle him, it might be that the dog is painful. Once the medical avenues have been ventured and the results come back good, then we start trouble shooting and breaking down the scenario in which the incident occurred.

The other way in which I work with veterinarians is helping their clients build a confident puppy or dog. It is less stressful for owner and dog when the dog is comfortable entering the veterinary office. Besides training dogs, I also work as a receptionist at the Windsor Veterinary Clinic. I can attest to the amount of dogs that come into the clinic fearful and shy as well as the ones that couldn't be happier to visit us. So how do you get that dog that wiggles and wags instead of shaking and whining as soon as you walk through the Vet's door?

The answer is start when the puppy is young but these tips can work for an adult dog too!

How do you go from this to a dog happily walking through the vet clinic door?

• From day one always do your best to make your puppy's visit exciting and positive. Always bring tasty, high value treats to feed your puppy for the exam and vaccinations. For every scheduled visit you have you should try and take your dog a handful of times for no reason.

• Bring your puppy or dog in "just for fun". Call ahead to make sure the lobby isn't overflowing (especially if you have a shy dog) and ask if you can bring Fido in to eat a few treats while standing in the lobby.
• The more you do this the more effective it will be, but once a month will still make a difference 

• As your puppy or dog becomes more comfortable in the lobby encourage the Veterinarian (if available), the Technicians and the Receptionists to feed your puppy. 

• Repeat these steps until your dog happily walks into the vet.

Tips for the dog that is shy or fearful. 

• Probably the most important, Go slow! 

• Try and schedule your appointment for a time when there will be less "traffic" at the office. First thing in the morning, after lunch, or end of day so that you can decrease the amount of triggers for your dog.

• If you dog is not taking treats find a point where he will, which might mean in the parking lot or starting in the car.

• If your dog is really fearful you may have a long road ahead of you and your conditioning may have to start in the parking lot with high value treats. Unfortunately the employees will be less likely to partake in the treat giving in the parking lot. You could even go as far as coming before or after hours and feeding your dog his meal outside. 

• A dog that is shaking in the car in the parking lot may not be ready to enter the building the first few sessions. Rehearse pulling into the parking lot, waiting for some signs of calm behavior, such as sighing, sitting, or a shake off, and reward with a treat and leaving. 

• Bring your dogs favorite toy and engage in a game in the parking lot, on leash of course, and then leave. 

• Practice walking to the lobby door, treating, entering and treating and then turning around and leaving. Do Not treat your dog for leaving the vet clinic. Leaving is a reward in itself and we want the dog to want to enter the clinic so that he can get his high value treats

When you have no choice and need to get your dog to the vet for an unforseen visit always try and leave on a positive note. Don't rush your dog right out the door from the exam room. Wait again until you see the slightest means of relaxing behavior, even if that means your dog offers or responds to a behavior cue like sit and then exit the building. And then go through the above steps as often as possible to ensure that your dog has more positive visits than negative! Remember this is a PROCESS you are not going to get overnight results.

A Short Note on Shock Collars

There are many opinions on the topic of shock collars. These opinions are often strong and result in a great debate because the people in discussion speak so passionately about them. I think also it is so passionately discussed because of the involvement of our animals. I want to present two experiences that would defend not using the shock style training for dogs.

Both of these instances do not actual pertain to a collar being worn by the dog but the delivery of an electrical shock to the dog does happen. A quick side note, dogs who wear a shock collar do distinguish between when they are wearing it and when they are not. Therefore if the dog does not perform the behavior in the absence of a shock collar they have not adequately been trained of the expectations of them.

Instance one:
Scout, my yellow lab, was very intrigued by some cows at a farm we were visiting. He was being slightly obnoxious but harmless. Scout was engaging with the cattle from a safe distance but would duck under the electric fencing to dance about in the pasture. He would go back and forth under the fence without so much as touching it, until he got spooked. Scout was in the pasture with the cows and as he ran by them they turned in pursuit and followed him. When he heard the sound of hooves, although a distance away, he panicked and went to duck quickly out from under the fence. He did not duck low enough and was shocked by the fence right across the middle of his back. Naturally Scout cried out, expressed his anal glands, and then made a huge arc around the perimeter of the fence. Scout then proceeded to come stand behind me, looking out past my legs and growled at the cows, believing them to be the source of his pain. He stopped interacting with them and watched them wearily.

Instance two:
This was told to me by a client that comes to the vet clinic I work at. She was telling me how they have a huge fenced in area that attaches to a horse stall so that their lab can go in and out of the sun, rain, wind etc. Having put her out there a number of times, they were aware that somehow she kept escaping. Interested to find out how, they made like they were leaving, parked down the road and walked back to observe. Turns out she was ducking out underneath one of the lowest rails. They were surprised she could fit. To solve the problem they ran electric fencing along the bottom of the fence. The client told me it only took the dog 2 times of being shocked on the nose before she stopped trying to escape. Then as the client chuckled in a sheepish sort of way, told me, "Now she won't even go out into the fenced in area. She just stays in the open horse stall."

Both of the instances are examples that with punishment based training or experiences, we don't have control over what the dogs associate it with. We know it has to do with a perimeter fence, but to the lab in Instance 2, she no longer felt safe leaving the confines of the horse stall to explore the open fenced area. She only knows that harm comes to her when she does. To Scout, he believes the cows were evil and responsible for his pain. His interest and curiosity changed to uncertainty and fear.
Think of a dog who wears a shock collar 24/7. Uncertainty and fear. Never knowing when or why you will receive the shock.  A dog who wears a shock collar or trained with punishment based methods are often found to be a higher strung, anxious dog.

In both these instances there are humane ways to teach a dog to leave the cows or come when called and to teach the dog boundaries. All can be achieved without causing harm. The unfortunate part of punishment based training is that you tend to get results fast because you are suppressing a behavior instead of taking the time to teach what you want. Kids don't learn the ABC's in one sitting. It takes repetition and consistency and patience. There are a lot of parallels between dog training and raising kids. A lot can be learned by applying some of the same techniques from one to the other.

There have been a number of studies done on the effects of reward based training on dogs verses punishment based training.


http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/canine-corner/201307/do-dogs-learn-faster-food-other-types-rewards

http://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2013/06/the-end-for-shock-collars.html

When can I stop using treats?

One of the most common questions asked to trainers who utilize food as reinforcement is, "When can I stop using treats?" as if it devalues the relationship or cheapens it. The truth of the matter is that food actually will strengthen your relationship with your dog as well as strengthen the dogs reliability to do a behavior.
Dogs do what works for them, and if a behavior earns them a reward, be it play or food, they are more likely to perform it again. Dogs, like people, will do things that motivate them. To expect our dog to come when called because we said so is like saying you will go to work and do your job because your boss said so. You go to work because you like the paycheck, dogs come to us to get their paycheck, a high value, tasty treat.
Don't therapists say that families should eat at least 1 meal together? A dog has to eat, no? Why not utilize the food that we so willingly put in our dogs dish for "free" and reward them throughout the day for behaviors we like. It only makes sense to reserve part of their meal and reward for tricks or calm behavior during the day instead expecting our dogs to behave because we said so. I am not saying that your dog needs a treat for every sit, down, stay, or other trick they know. Once your dog knows the behavior you can switch to intermittent rewards. Start rewarding the really good behaviors for a job well done.


Trainers at Sea World utilize food as a reward to train large marine mammals to perform "tricks" which help make vet exams a breeze.
  Photo from Seaworld.org

If your dog only listens to you when food is in your hand, the food has been used incorrectly and you are actually bribing your dog. When utilizing food as a reinforcer you ask for the behavior, get it, and then reward with the piece of food. The food shouldn't be visible or held out in front of your dog in a way of saying, see the food, now do the behavior, that equals bribing. We want our dogs to do the behavior in hopes of getting that really yummy reward.
So to recap,  you can stop using treats for you dog once they know a behavior, but why not periodically use the treats to continue to reinforce and bond with your dog?

The Fear Stage

I am currently experiencing what is known as the Fear Impact Stage with my 10 month old lab, Henry. For those that are unsure, the fear stage comes anytime from 6 months to 2 years in most cases. It is when your dog becomes fearful or unsure of something that once wasn't a problem. Most people are aware of the critical socialization period of 8-14 weeks of age for puppies. Their little brains still malleable and making positive connections with their surroundings. It is important to bring puppies to meet different people, see different places and exposing them to the world. Socializing your dog is so important for the rest of their life. Not just during this critical time.

Unfortunately with Sir Henry the last 4-5 weeks have resulted in the usual, go with me to work, come home, repeat. Limited amount of continuing socialization. Somewhere in there he had his surgery on his knee which was then followed by rest and relaxation. During this time I can't be taking him to new places and greeting new people when he is likely to get excited and potentially do damage to the newly repaired knee. Now that he is reaching a point where he is encouraged to walk 10-15 minutes I intend to take him to somewhere new at least 3-4 times a week.

We have experienced a couple of instances of uncertainty which is what indicates to me that he is in his fear stage. Within the house it was objects that were placed in odd locations, a trash bag of clothes, melted in shape to the floor, a bag placed on top of a table where it has never sat before etc. Today Henry experienced 2 young kids raking leaves and putting them into a wheel barrow. Initially he watched intrigued, tail wagging, body loose. I should have redirected him right then and moved on. I did not. He then grew uncertain of what he was watching. The only nice thing about Henry is he rebounds well. Henry did a whooing type bark from his throat and with his body low moved quickly forward. The boys, fortunately, stopped raking and stood still while Henry investigated. Within seconds we were back to a loose wagging body who was very happy to be around kids. On that note, we walked away to continue his potty run. Even at a distance Henry continued to longingly look back to the kids with loose body movements almost as to say "Do you see them? They are fun!" This was a big indicator to me that Henry was going to need remedial socialization and to get him out and exposed to the world again and forever.

A fear impact stage can be a short window or it can go for months. There is the possibility that we may go through it now and then have another one in several months. The biggest thing to do when you find your dog uncertain about objects or people is  do not force confrontation. Fortunately, Henry was still eager to approach the boys and rakes and investigate. If he hadn't, it would not have been beneficial to drag him down the road to force the greeting. Instead, I talked in a cheery voice and made it interesting. I touched the rakes which helped his confidence to sniff it. Ideally, carrying treats with you will help diffuse the situation from the beginning. Had I had my treat bag on me when we went out the door I could have been handing treats to him while he stood and stared at the boys from a distance, before he had a moment to react. I didn't, I learned from the situation, and I made the best of it that I could. 

Meanwhile, Henry is almost back to full range of motion after 2 weeks. He is getting more and more difficult to keep quiet. Naturally a little on the mellow side anyway, he still runs the length of the house (44 feet), before I get up and intercept him on his way back. Just before his 2 week check up, Henry even jumped on our bed, which in the 10 months I have had him, he has never successfully done or attempted. Although this isn't to be encouraged, I couldn't help but be a little happy about it. He clearly is feeling strong in that leg and good about it. Here's to part way through his recovery and the days when we can go hiking together!

Teaching Our Dog ESL

Did you know our dogs aren't born knowing English? Seems pretty obvious right? Though time and again, I hear owners harping on their 8 week old puppies to sit, sit, sit, SIT. We are their teachers and need to teach our dogs what we want when we say "Sit" or "Come here" or whatever may be your primary speaking language. We have the tendency to repeat ourselves and get louder the longer we go without results. If I asked something of you in Spanish, and you only understand English, and I continued to get louder and angrier it isn't going to increase the chance that you are going to do what I am asking. So if I continually tell you to come here in Spanish, and since you dont' understand me you look at me quizzically, I repeat myself, and then a bit louder, I now am no longer a friendly person but a bit scary and you aren't going to come to me


Um...I don't understand you. You want me to do what?

.
Using positive reinforcement, we can grab a yummy treat, lure the dog in to the sit position a few times and then give the treat to him when his hind end hits the floor. In that short span of time, we have taught our dog a general hand signal for sit. Dr. Patricia McConnell did a study that proved dogs are very visual and in tune with body language and hand signals. They do not listen to our voices that well, probably for the fact that we talk at them constantly. Once our dog has a good understanding of the hand signal, we then will tie the verbal cue Sit to it, thus teaching our dogs English as a Second Language (ESL).